The UGCB tasting of the recently released 2021 vintage showed a relatively homogeneous character for wines with fruits on the lighter side backed by fresh acidity. That sense of freshness was relatively tart in Pessac-Léognan, noticeable as fresher than usual in the Médoc, and showing as reduced opulence in St. Emilion and Pomerol. Châteaux that have moved to an international style showed it less obviously this vintage.

Pessac-Léognan is quite consistent with mid-weight wines. They should be lovely restaurant wines as most will be ready to start within a couple of years. The trio of Smith Haut Lafitte, Pape Clément, and Domaine de Chevalier showed as having greater weight and longevity than the other reds. Whites tended to show herbaceous, sometimes even sweaty, notes of Sauvignon Blanc, but with Pape Clément smoother and fatter, and Domains de Chevalier standing out for its precision. Larrivet Haut Brion retained typicity with a nice balance between Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon.  Among the lesser châteaux, Olivier showed unusually well.

Margaux is generally quite consistent, and overall seems less successful than St. Julien or Pauillac. The typical elegance of the appellation does show in most wines, although light fruits tend to allow the tannic backbone to show through. Most wines are quite fresh, you might almost say showing a sense of tartness on the finish. The impression of a cooler (and wetter) year is clearest in Pessac-Léognan, but Margaux is close behind. Among the best results, Lascombes shows more weight than most Margaux this vintage, with the usual sense of the international style subdued, Malescot St Exupéry is relatively juicy for Margaux, Marquis de Terme is round, Prieuré-Lichine shows floral impressions, Rauzan-Gassies and Rauzan-Ségla both show the typical elegance of Margaux

The best wines in St. Julien have retained a typical sense of finesse, perhaps with less precision than usual. They are fresh, but the sense of a tart finish is less evident than in Margaux. The best wines are Beychevelle, which is elegant if a little tight, Gruaud Larose, which is firm but elegant, Léoville Poyferré, showing a textured palate with the international style a little attenuated, Langoa all smooth and elegant while Léoville Barton retains its usual precision, and St. Pierre is a little deeper than Gloria.

I can’t really say why Pauillac doesn’t seem to come to life in this vintage. The wines are firm rather than plush, they have more body than St. Julien or Margaux, and less obvious acidity pressing on the finish, they will need longer to come around and have greater longevity, but somehow they don’t capture the typicity of Pauillac. Armailhac gives a nice round wine, distinctly more refined than its stablemate Clerc Milon, Lynch Bages is one of the best results, a but of a throwback in needing significant time to come around, Lynch Moussas is unusually elegant for the chateau and appellation.

St. Estèphe was barely represented this year, and as neither of the second growths, Montrose and Cos d’Estournel are ever represented at the tasting, this is always one of the more difficult appellations to get a bead on, but at the level of Cos Labory and Phélan Ségur, the wines show more the limitations of the vintage than success in overcoming it. Ormes de Pez is punching above its weight, with fine, elegant fruits (outperforming its stablemate Haut Batailley in Pauillac),

The Haut-Médoc was not able to rise above the vintage. Most of the wines are rather tight now, and it’s hard to say whether there will be enough fruit to carry the palate when the structure resolves, although the more successful wines may move in the direction of a fine elegance over four years or so. La Lagune stands out. Listrac and Moulis have produced wines that seem a touch superficial, not as concentrated as one would like. Fourcas-Dupré stands out; Château Clarke is more structured and less approachable.

Acidity is less pressing on the finish in the Right Bank wines. Pomerol generally offers a somewhat soft impression (although it is difficult to form a representative view as Moueix do not present their wines at the UGCB tasting, so most of the top cuvées are missing). The general impression in 2021 is that Pomerol is soft rather than opulent.

Lighter fruits give St. Emilion a relatively restrained impression this year, even showing real elegance. The standout for me was Valandraud, with its fine, elegant, perfumed palate–the very antithesis of a garage wine! La Dominique is punching above its weight this year.

Difficult to form a clear impression of Sauternes from this tasting, because the tasters must have had a sweet tooth, as most of the Sauternes had run out before I got to them at the end. Doisy Daëne is a success that lives up to the reputation of the vintage; Sigalas Rabaud and Rayne Vigneau seemed disappointing by comparison.

TASTING NOTES FOR 2021 VINTAGE

Pessac-Léognan Red

Château Bouscaut: A little tart: pleasant fruits: but not much weight. 88 Drink 2026-2032

Château de Fieuzal: Smoother than usual although a little tart with a hint of piquancy but showing juicy fruits and a smoky granular texture: 89 Drink 2026-2032

Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion: Smooth and elegant with smoky tannins: quite flavorful. Good result for vintage. 90 Drink 2029-2039

Château Latour-Martillac: The tart note of the vintage shows here as a little sour. Seems a bit shallow. 88 Drink 2027-2035

Château Les Carmes Haut Brion: Quite elegant fruits: a little sharp: not heavy weight. 88 Drink 2026-2032

Château Malartic Lagravière: Mid weight palate is just a little tart: with a touch of smoky tannins: nice restaurant wine. 89 Drink 2027-2034

Château Pape Clément: Smooth and elegant with smoky tannins in the background. The tartness of the year just shows but the wine should become elegant when the tannins resolve. The palate should become chocolaty with time. 91 Drink 2028-2038

Château Smith Haut Lafitte: Just a fraction lighter and more fruit forward than Domaine de Chevalier or Pape Clement. Smooth and elegant and not especially international this year. 89 Drink 2027-2037

Domaine de Chevalier: Smooth and elegant with just a touch of the tart character if the year. 90 Drink 2026-2036

Margaux

Château Angludet: Elegant with the lightness of Margaux showing: a little restrained with a touch of tannin at end. 89 Drink 2027-2035

Château Brane Cantenac: Smooth and elegant for the year. A touch smoky on light granular background. A fraction tart on the finish. 89 Drink 2027-2035

Château Cantenac Brown: Light weight palate with some tannins drying the finish: a touch fresh: but nice texture. 88 Drink 2027-2035

Château Dauzac: Nice representation of Margaux. Tannins are light but dry finish with smoky impression. A little shallow without much follow through. 88 Drink 2027-2035

Château Desmirail: Light and elegant: true to Margaux: although a little tart and slightly herbal on finish with light tannins. 88 Drink 2027-2034

Château du Tertre: Smooth: elegant: round: acidity tames better than most in Margaux this year. Elegant and dry on finish in medium weight style. Tannins just show at end. 90 Drink 2028-2038

Château Giscours: A little fuller than most Margaux: cut by that touch of tartness from the vintage. Seems a little on the rustic side for Margaux. 88 Drink 2927-2935

Château Kirwan: Light weight: showing that tart character. Tannins just show on finish. Seems a bit shallow. 88 Drink 2027-2035

Château Lascombes: This has a little more weight than most Margaux(the remnant of the international style in this vintage): with a touch of tartness. Tannins just show on finish. Needs a little time to resolve. 90 Drink 2028-2038

Château Malescot St. Exupéry: Light and fresh: but fruits behind are juicy for Margaux. Tannins show some smokiness. Has firm structure and needs a little time. 89 Drink 2028-2038

Château Prieuré Lichine: Some floral impressions to nose. Smooth and round on palate with tannic structure showing on finish. Nice weight: a good result for vintage: 90 Drink 2028-2038

Château Rauzan-Gassies: Smooth and elegant: very much a representative of Margaux in this year. Some dryness on finish shows structure. Nice and fresh with some juicy fruits. Very good result for the year. 90 Drink 2028-2038

Château Rauzan-Ségla: Sweet and elegant: feels softer than most in Margaux this vintage: sweet rather than juicy. Elegant representation of Margaux but with that tartness at the end. 90 Drink 2026-2036

Château Siran: Light: elegant Margaux: structure shows a touch of dryness: not a heavyweight: decent typicity. 88 Drink 2027-2035

St. Julien

Château Beychevelle: Here is the elegance of St. Julien with Beychevelle’s tightness in the background. Elegant: seems more driven by Cabernet Sauvignon: some dryness on the finish. 90 Drink 2028-2040

Château Branaire Ducru: A light style for St Julien (much lighter than Beychevelle): not much stuffing: some light tannic support. 88 Drink 2027-2035

Château Gloria: Quite fine but a little tight with the tartness of the year just showing. In another 2-3 years should be a lovely restaurant wine. 89 Drink 2027-2037

Château Gruaud Larose: Shows the finesse of St Julien with mid weight of the vintage. Good representation of St. Julien this year. Firm enough but does not loose finesse. 90 Drink 2029-2039

Château Lagrange: On the light side for Lagrange: tannins show more distinctly against lightness of fruits. Tartness of year shows through. 88 Drink 2027-2034

Château Langoa Barton: Smooth: round: elegant: a little more weight than I expected in this vintage for St. Julien. 90 Drink 2028-2038

Château Léoville Barton: Smooth and more elegant than Langoa. Very fine with the usual impression of precision. Moving in chocolaty direction. 90 Drink 2028-2040

Château Léoville Poyferré: Already shows some chocolaty impressions. Texture gives away the international style: although it’s attenuated in this vintage by the acidity. Dryness on finish attests to structure. 91 Drink 2027-2037

Château Saint Pierre: A hair’s breadth more finesse than Gloria and just a little deeper on the palate. Very true to St. Julien. 90 Drink 2028-2040

Château Talbot: Fine but a little tight: with fine tannic structure at the end. 89 Drink 2028-2038

Pauillac

Château Batailley: A sort of middle of the road Pauillac for the vintage. Tartness shows on the finish. It does not quite seem to come to life. 88 Drink 2029-2037

Château Clerc Milon: A fuller impression compared to the wines of St Julien but firm rather than plush. Some tannins dry finish. A tendency to rusticity shows. 88 Drink 2029-2037

Château Croizet Bages: Rounder: weightier: and fuller than its stablemate Rauzan Gassies: moving more in the direction of rusticity. Doesn’t really show the plushness of Pauillac. 88 Drink 2029-2039

Château d’Armailhac: Noticeably smoother and more refined than Clerc Milon: full flavored and moving in a savory direction. Tannins are smooth on finish. 90 Drink 2028-2038

Château Duhart Milon: A little tight but inclining towards elegance although with some tart character at end. May move in a classic savory direction. 90 Drink 2029-2039

Château Grand-Puy Ducasse: There are hints of the plushness of Pauillac but the tart fruit is taking over. Decent result for the vintage. 89 Drink 2029-2037

Château Haut Batailley: Tart and herbal notes show on palate with tannic bitterness just showing on finish: where tannins are quite drying. Seems quite old style. 89 Drink 2029-2038

Château Lynch Bages: Smooth: just short of plushness on the finish: which is quite dry but the tannins are fine. Seems a bit of a throwback in showing potential but really needing time. 92 Drink 2030-2040

Château Lynch Moussas: Quite elegant for Pauillac and the vintage: fresh rather than tart: with medium weight fruits. This will make a nice restaurant wine in a few years. 89 Drink 2028-2036

St. Estèphe

Château Cos Labory: The hardness of St Estèphe shows against the freshness of the vintage: but it is really quite tart on the finish. It’s a good demonstration of the limitations of the vintage. 88 Drink 2028-2036

Château les Ormes de Pez: Punching above its weight: in fact I prefer it to Haut Batailley because its fine and elegant with mid weight fruits: supported by tannins in the background. 90 Drink 2027-2035

Château Phélan Ségur: For St. Estèphe this is a relatively light style: a little hard on the palate at present: but with nice fruits behind: if a little too tart. 88 Drink 2028-2036

Château Poujeaux: Smooth and elegant but seems a little shallow. There are some savory intimations in the background. 89 Drink 2029-2037

Château Clarke: Smooth with more impression of a full palate than most. A touch smoky in the background. Good structure showing as dryness on finish. More structured but less approachable than Fourcas-Dupré. 89 Drink 2029-2039

Château Fourcas Dupré: Just a touch finer and smoother than Fourcas-Hosten. A little tight on the finish but shows elegance and better concentration than most Listrac this year. With a smoky finish: this is the wine I like best from Listrac and Moulis. 89 Drink 2028-2036

Château Fourcas Hosten: Fine and elegant: not as tight as some: just shows a fraction tart on finish. A sense of lack of concentration in background. Some tannic dryness to finish. 88 Drink 2028-2036

Château Maucaillou: Faint almonds on the nose. Smooth and elegant on the palate but shows that sense of lack of concentration of Listrac this year. A little herbal at the end. 88 Drink 2028-2036

Haut-Médoc

Château Beaumont: (This is Beychevelle’s Haut Médoc). Much lighter style than Beychevelle: not much stuffing: but very pleasant. 87 Drink 2026-2032

Château Cantemerle: Smooth but a little tight: with black fruit impressions on the palate supported by fine tannins. Should move in the direction of elegance as it ages. 89 Drink 2029-2037

Château Citran: Fine structure but tight: tannins obscuring fruits on finish. 88 Drink 2029-2037

Château Coufran: A little tight: black fruits behind the slightly acidic finish: perhaps it will move in a savory direction as it ages. 88 Drink 2029-2037

Château La Lagune: A fine impression of La Lagune: smooth albeit with a tart finish: a little tight with potential for aging to smooth elegance. 89 Drink 2029-2039

Château La Tour Carnet: A somewhat tight impression. Fine fruits behind the rather reserved palate. Difficult to say whether and when the fruits will emerge: but needs at least four years. 88 Drink 2028-2036

Château La Tour de By: Quite a fine: elegant impression for the Haut-Médoc: although a little herbal at the end. Mid weight palate. Well made. 88 Drink 2028-2036

St. Emilion

Château Berliquet: Lighter and less concentrated than Canon: so the acidity shows through more clearly. In fact: seems a bit too much on the tart side. 87 Drink 2027-2034

Château Canon: Shows its usual finesse and precision but with less sense of concentration than usual. It is rather tight at the present. 89 Drink 2028-2036

Château La Dominique: Quite a firm impression. Fruits are relatively tight: between the red and black spectrum: supported by good structure. Punching above its weight this year. 89 Drink 2028-2036

Château Larcis Ducasse: Quite a restrained impression with some savory notes. Fine on the palate and a touch nutty on the finish. 88 Drink 2028-2035

Château Pavie Macquin: The acidity of the vintage shows more clearly here than with most St. Emilions: with a faintly sour impression making this feel a bit of a throwback. There are some intimations of savory character to come. Tannic structure is light. 89 Drink 2028-2035

Château Valandraud: Unusual nose is quite floral. Quite full on the palate with some savory intimations. Tannins are so smooth you hardly see them: but the structure is there. This is a very fine and elegant result: not at all like a garage wine. 91 Drink 2027-2037

Château Villemaurine: Quite elegant balance: not too soft or fruit-forward: nicely restrained: a touch of savory acidity at the end. 88 Drink 2028-2036

Pomerol

Château Beauregard: Round and chocolaty on the palate: quite granular texture is a touch soft: perhaps not quite enough follow-through. 89 Drink 2028-2036

Château Bon Pasteur: Very fine and elegant for Pomerol: a touch chocolaty: just enough acidity to take the edge off. A very good result for the vintage: certainly not overblown. 89 Drink 2028-2036

Château Clinet: Just enough sense of acidity to cut the general softness of Pomerol this year. It is on the lighter side for Clinet. 88 Drink 2027-2035

Château La Cabanne: Soft and approachable with a slight touch of acidity: a granular texture moving in direction of chocolate: overall a restrained style for Pomerol. 89 Drink 2028-2036

Château Le Gay: The softness of Pomerol segues into a nutty palate that feels very Merlot-driven. Soft and attractive but do not expect great longevity. 88 Drink 2027-2034

Château Petit Village: Nicely rounded but not overtly fruity. A certain softness to the palate gives the impression that this vintage is Merlot-driven. Just a touch less structured than usual.. 88 Drink 2027-2034

Sauternes

Château de Rayne Vigneau: Viscous and lightly honeyed. Faint bitterness on finish. A little rustic. 88 Drink -2035

Château Sigalas Rabaud: Lightly honeyed but not obviously very botrytized or overwhelmingly sweet. Pleasant but not very powerful. 88 Drink -2036

Château Doisy-Daëne: Botrytized nose is quite honeyed. Viscous palate with lots of flavor. This is a success for the year. 90 Drink –2040

Pessac-Léognan White

Château Carbonnieux: A little lacking in character. Slightly herbaceous with refreshing acidity but not a lot of follow-through. 88 Drink -2028

Château de Fieuzal: Slightly sweaty nose from Sauvignon Blanc. Palate more acidic than herbaceous. Acidity is a bit pressing on the finish. 88 Drink -2029

Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion: Nice balance: a slight tang from Sauvignon Blanc: fat and nutty from Semillon. Acidity is fresh but not aggressive. 89 Drink -2029

Château Latour-Martillac: Nose shows some sweaty notes of Sauvignon Blanc. Palate is more acidic than herbaceous although there is a slightly herbaceous tang to the finish. 88 Drink -2029

Château Malartic Lagravière: Nose shows some sweaty Sauvignon Blanc. Quite typical Pessac. 88 Drink -2029

Château Olivier: Very nice balance just showing Sauvignon Blanc but not too aggressive. Faintly nutty impressions in background. 89 Drink -2029

Château Pape Clément: Smooth and round: more fat than Smith Haut Lafitte (more Semillon?) but Sauvignon Blanc coming out with those sweaty notes on the finish. 90 Drink -2029

Château Smith Haut Lafitte: Strong impression of Sauvignon Blanc with sweaty aromas: but fine and elegant on palate with a zing at the end from Sauvignon Blanc. 90 Drink -2028

Domaine de Chevalier: Smoothest and most precise of the whites this year. Less obviously dominated by Sauvignon Blanc than others. Very fine. 90 Drink -2029